Article also available on Black Girl with Long Hair!

At this point in my natural hair journey, I'm certain of three things:

1. I suck at doing twist-outs.
2. I can henna my hair in my sleep.
3. I have pretty much mastered the wash and go.

Even though I've practically got my wash and go down to a science (a super science, thanks to my new diffuser), sometimes soft, bouncy curls and coils will elude me. Typically, I can pinpoint the culprit -- a wack conditioner that didn't prime my hair for styling, a wack product that zapped the life from my hair, or me being wack in how I applied it. Sometimes, it's a combination of 2 or all 3. Because the wash and go game is all about trial and error, I present to you 4 common wash and go woes that I've experienced, and how I've fixed them to avoid the excessive manipulation that comes with washing and starting again from scratch (although sometimes that is necessary...if a product is THAT bad).

Wash and Go Woe #1: Flaky Products
It has happened to me on several occasions: I find a curl definer I'm really excited about, and even my "test patch" goes well. But somewhere between wishful thinking and overzealous application of product, my hair looks great while wet but once dry -- it looks dull, whitish, and my shoulders look like polar ice caps.
The Fix: All hope isn't lost. As a temporary fix, section your hair and grab your favorite oil. Work enough oil (usually a nickle sized amount will do depending on the length and thickness of your hair) through each section, and it should banish enough of the flakes to get you through the next few days until it is time to wash. Whatever you do, don't add more product, or any type of conditioner, moisturizer, lotion, hair milk -- none of that. It will only exacerbate the problem. Oh, and avoid dark colored shirts until you wash again :)

Wash and Go Woe #2: Dry as the Desert
Your product says it won't dry your hair out, and you double-check the label for drying alcohols and other no-no ingredients. It looks good, is nice and slippy, and feels like silk when it goes on your hair. But two hours later, your hair could justifiably be mistaken for a tumbleweed.
The Fix:  Did you add a layer of moisture under your curl definer? If not, now's the time. If you did, grab a spray bottle of water, and whatever leave-in and moisturizer you used underneath the product that dried your hair out. In sections, gently spritz (to make the hair more workable) with water, apply a small amount of leave-in, and moisturizer on top. Before going all willy-nilly with product, do a small test patch to make sure you won't get white balls and flakes that send you back up to problem #1. After applying all 3 layers of moisture, lightly seal with your oil of choice. That should hold you a few days.

Wash and Go Woe #3: The Fuzzies
Maybe you forgot to pineapple before bedtime, or you got the itchies and massaged your scalp to hard. Or if you're like me, you started playing in your hair before it was fully dry. Whatever the cause, you've now got the fuzzies, and it's looking like you should abandon all wash and go hope and opt for a bun.
The Fix: Don't bring out the bun yet! There's a neat little fix that will completely flip your wash and go. For hair that is generally fuzzy, take the front/center section of your hair and do it over. Seriously. Wash it, condition it, and apply product to it. Use a blow dryer or diffuser to expedient the drying process and lay it over the rest of the frizz. As an added bonus, add a little slickness around the edges with an edge control product (like Passion Fruit Curl Control Paste) or a butter blend. It's the same concept as redoing the top few rows of braids or twists -- camouflaging the mess with a perfectly manicured perimeter.

Wash and Go Woe #4: Soul Glo Greasy
At some point, I really do need to accept that styling products with humectants high up on the list are a no-go for me. Yes, the moisture is amazing. But in then end, my hair is sticky and perpetually shrunken for days. The same goes for stir-crazy application of heavy oils and butters. Weighed down, stringy hair and grease spots on every thing I touch is what happens whenever my wash and go is too sticky or oily.
The Fix: Alcohol -- in the form of a holding or styling spray. Before you x out of this article or leave me a crazy comment, hear me out. Greasy or sticky shrunken hair has too much moisture, or a product that draws in or retains too much moisture. Your hair may be nice and shiny, but do you really want to have to wash your hands every 20 minutes because you accidentally touched your hair? Sprays that contain alcohol will help suck up the excess moisture and oil -- which is why natural and transitioning ladies are told to avoid them. Under normal circumstances, alcohol-laden sprays will dry out the hair and cause breakage. But to temporarily fix your sticky situation, they're perfect. My go-to spray that sucks up just enough moisture without leaving my hair feeling dry, brittle, or hard is the Ouidad Flexible Hold Spray -- although I'm almost certain this is not the intended purpose for this product.

What other wash and go woes have you encountered? Let's help each other out!

Full transparency here: I'm at the end of month 2 as a participant in The Mane Choice's Manetabolism Hair Growth Challenge. I'm in no way being paid to promote the vitamin, I am simply being supplied with free vitamins for 6 months (plus I'll be doing a giveaway of 2 bottles of the vitamin in April).

Now that we've got that out the way, let me share a funny story with you all circulating around a picture I posted on Instagram only a few weeks in to taking the vitamin.


My followers went IN on me. Not a full reading, but enough to make me reconsider my life as a blogger. Of course I'm being a little dramatic, but they definitely let me know that they were here for nothing other than the hardcore truth. I was told everything from, "you'll see what you want to see" to "your facial position is different", and "your sweater is visually interfering". Of course,  it was all in love and wanting to see the progress with the vitamin for nothing less than what it actually was. I get it. Totally. My followers and naturalistas on the whole are tired of being marketed to through bloggers (at least in that cheesy, painfully obvious way), and want the facts. They want the truth. And so do I.

So I did what any person who knows what to do with criticism does -- take it in, make some changes, and do better next time. So with that being said, let me use my lessons learned and share with you how to do a proper length check (for those that are interested in tracking length retention):

Tip 1: Pick the right tools for the long-haul.
If you pick a particular shirt, be prepared to use that shirt -- Every. Single. Time. I personally recommend making your own DIY Length Check Shirt, because trying to recapture the same exact angles in an unmarked t-shirt or tank top is an exercise in futility. You'll use all the memory in your phone trying to get the pictures right, and spend even more time in your photo grid app trying to make sure your shoulders line up. Trust me. Also, a shirt that has some sort of print or graphic on the front works best. That way, along with the measurements at the back, you'll have a visual reference for the front. If you're going to go the tape measure route, make sure you've got some help. You'll need a second pair of hands to hold the measure while you hold your hair in a stretched state, or at least to hold the camera.

Tip 2: Have at least 2 or 3 points of reference.
Different areas of your hair may grow at different rates. For example, the front of my hair grows disrespectfully fast in comparison to the back of my hair. But I would never know that, because the front shrinks up so much more. If you're looking to remain encouraged along a growth/length retention journey, having multiple references or checkpoints for your length will help you keep it all in perspective. It will also help you determine if there are any changes you need to make in your styling regimen, especially if you begin noticing breakage or increasingly thinning ends.  

Tip 3: Always grab the same areas.
Admittedly, when I wrote this I immediately thought of breakage due to excess manipulation of a particular area. But then I realized, unless you're doing length checks on a daily/weekly basis (which I absolutely do not recommend), you should be fine. The main idea here is to make sure that you have consistent points of reference for your photos. If you measured your hair at the front on the right side last month, why would you compare it to the left side this month? Keep it simple, and keep it all the same.

Tip 4: Avoid angles.
There's a hilarious meme circulating on social media of a girl doing a length check with her head tilted back as she's essentially bent over backwards. As hilarious as it is, it's true. I see so many #lengthcheck pictures where it's painfully obvious that the head is tilted back or forward to give the impression of extra length. As much as possible, try to look straight ahead in all shots. I know, camera angles are a lady's best friend (right next to filters and lighting), but they've got to go if you're serious about being as accurate as possible.

Tip 5: Don't do it too often.
There is absolutely no point in checking your hair every day, every 7 days, every 10 days. Most hair grows between half an inch and an inch per month. What are you checking for, nanometers? At least wait 3 weeks between length checks, otherwise you're bound to get discouraged. My personal rule of thumb is every 30 days, or every month. Give your hair enough time to work it's magic!

What are some of your best practices when it comes to length checks?

I'm super excited to be a BGLH Style Icon. Check out my feature live at:

http://blackgirllonghair.com/2014/03/christina-patrice-3c-natural-hair-style-icon/

Thanks everyone for your love and support! It means so much :)

Article also available on Black Girl with Long Hair!

Late last night, I was up on Facebook rolling around and clicking through interesting articles my friends were reposting. One in particular caught my eye -- not because of the title, but because of the picture associated used to promote the article (above):

I saw a Black woman and the phrase "twists are not authorized", and I was hooked. I  jumped in full steam ahead, reading up on the newly approved Army Regulation 670-1 and pouring over each slide of the leaked Army Regulation 670-1 Leader Training Powerpoint. Amid the regulations about tattoos, uniforms, and facial hair for men, there were some not-so-subtle hints that the United States Army doesn't take too kindly to natural hair. Take a look at these two slides in particular:





Apparently, the new regulations seek to create a uniform professional and clean-cut image across the board for both women and men. I have no qualms with that goal (in theory), but rather how it is defined.  As with most definitions of "clean-cut" and "professional", the regulations seem to specifically target Black women -- those with natural hair in particular. Twists and locs are out the window. Women with short to medium length hair are allowed to wear it out -- except for if the bulk of your hair protrudes more than two inches from the scalp. That automatically discounts anyone with any sort of naturally textured hair. Our hair doesn't hang until it reaches a certain length (and even then it tends to extend far beyond two inches from our scalps) -- and it most certainly doesn't lie flat unless straightened. Here's what the Army Regulations say about wearing hair loose, as a point of comparison:

And for those ladies with hair that is considered long? Bun regulations stipulate that the bunned hair itself cannot protrude more than three inches from the scalp, and cannot be wider than the with of the wearer's head. Again, another slight toward women with thick, dense natural hair. It should be noted that cornrows and individual braids are permitted, but there are of course, strict regulations on the size, length, and styling of these braided styles.

What I find the most interesting is that weaves and wigs are permitted. Can someone please explain the rationale behind it being okay to rock a lacefront, but not twists? And how on earth is it possible for extensions and wigs to have the same general appearance as the individual's natural hair and conform to the AR 670-1 guidelines -- when her natural hair may be unauthorized to begin with?


And lastly, before you just write me off as making a big stink about nothing -- note that "most of the appearance and grooming chapter are punitive". There are consequences for noncompliance. I'd really like to hear from the Servicewomen out there on this one -- because as far as what I can see, these regulations deem natural hair as unfit for women in the Army.

What do you all think? Do the new Army Regulations single out women with natural hair?

To read the full article and PowerPoint presentation on Army Regulation 670-1, visit:
http://www.armytimes.com/article/20140320/NEWS/303200060/New-Army-grooming-appearance-regs-leaked-online

This article is also featured on Black Girl with Long Hair!

Confession: Some of us transitioners and naturalistas get a little overzealous (and borderline OCD) when it comes to caring for our hair. Some of us have routines that are hardwired into our into our lives, with no chance of changing. Pre-poo every Wednesday. Detangle and co-wash Thursday. Protectively style for 3 weeks. Henna on the 1st of every month...and the list goes on.

Personally, I don't believe in said rigidity. I just do what my hair needs, when it needs it. If I can go a week and a half before washing, then so be it. If I'm not feeling protective styling, then I'll let it all hang out. Even though I'm not the most routine//regimented transitioner, I do believe that there are some little habits and practices that if done often enough, can lead to real damage. Let's jump right in:

Picking at Split Ends and Single Strand Knots
 As we all know, direct sunlight is very telling. When I'm chilling passenger side riding around (not gettin' it), I often hold the ends of my hair up so I can see how they're doing. Sometimes, I see split ends that look absolutely terrifying. Of course, I don't have scissors in my car, so I pinch down with my nails and yank. I know. Bad Christina. I had to stop myself from doing this because well, it is damaging. And truth be told, it only exacerbates the problem instead of alleviating it. Whenever you use dull scissors (or in this case, fingernails) to take off split ends, the hair bends; which lends itself to fraying as opposed to a clean cut across. Frayed ends split, which means the problem you sought to remedy has come right back. Additionally, often times picking at ends leads to taking them off unevenly across the shaft of the hair. When a strand of hair is unevenly cut (or nipped), the ends are more susceptible to damage and splitting. Even though a simple split end pinch here and there might be tempting, just wait until you can get a sharp pair of hair scissors in your hands. That way, you can avoid having to take off more length more often.

Finger Twirling and Touching
This one might be more for me than it is for ya'll. I am a recovering chronic finger twirler. Not a day used to go by where I wasn't twirling my hair at some point -- while having conversations, while working, while deep in thought, while driving, over dinner....you get the point. While twirling your hair around your finger isn't the worst thing you can do, it isn't exactly the best either. Each time you touch or otherwise manipulate your hair, you may not see it, but you are losing protein and damaging the cuticle. Over time (especially if you tend to twirl or touch the same area or section of hair), you run the risk of weakening that area by causing mid-shaft splits and breakage. I am not saying that you can never ever touch, run your fingers through, or twirl your hair. That is crazy and unrealistic. What I am saying, is if you have a bad habit like I do, tucking your hair away (buns, etc.) may help you save your strands from unnecessary damage.

Constant Length Checking
This practice doesn't really cause damage to your hair, it causes damage to you. Transitioners and naturalistas that are interested in retaining and growing longer hair are often curious to see how much their hair grows in a given period. I understand. I am curious too. But please understand that length checking your hair every 4 days isn't going to yield you any satisfactory results. Some months, your hair will grow like a weed. Other months, you'll swear your hair got stage fright and coiled back into your scalp. Growing out healthy, natural hair is not a sprint. It's not a marathon. Heck, it's not even a race. It takes time. So what if so-and-so got 3 inches of growth in 3 months. What does that have to do with you and your hair? Stop "tryna see" if your hair has grown every five minutes. A watched pot never boils.

Trying to Get That Old Thing Back (or something you weren't meant to have in the first place)
For the longest time, I was in denial about my banana clips. When I first began transitioning, I loved me some banana clips -- they made for quick, easy, and cute styling. But toward the end of summer, I realized that every clip I attempted to work my hair into either broke, wouldn't close, or popped open. I spent more time (and incurred more breakage and tangles) trying to force my hair into an old favorite that simply wouldn't work anymore. As much as it sucked, I had to move on. If you have an old style, styling tool, or accessory that used to work wonders but now is a struggle, it might be time to let it go. Save yourself from the frustration, breakage, damage, tangles, and time. Find something else to use, or a new style to wear. There is always more.

Article also available on Black Girl with Long Hair!

Never in a million years would I have imagined that my first small business feature would be embraced so widely, and so unanimously supported by everyone. I think it's pretty safe to say that the small businesses featured all share three amazing qualities:

1. They produce high quality, effective products
2. They use superior ingredients with proven benefits
3. They care about making natural hair healthy

Not to mention, all the owners themselves are natural and use their own product as living proof.

Without further delay, here are 9 more amazing, super high quality small business brands worthy of our support. They deliver amazing products with impressive ingredient lists, and even more impressive results.

Note: Just like part I, this list is by NO means conclusive. There are tons more, and I would love to hear from you all exactly who they are :-) In fact, there is a part III coming.  And this list is in no particular order!


Qhemet Biologics
The Backstory: Back in 2004, Felis Butler began her mission to cater to kinkier textures of hair. She believed that naturals in the 4c category had become the most frustrated with this texture, even though there was no reason to be. Pulling from her background as a historian, she was inspired by indigenous ancestors who embraced their hair in all of its textures. With the right combination of ingredients, Butler was able to create a rich, multipurpose, top of the line brand of products for the ingredient-conscious natural. She believes that the combination of the right products, a supportive community and the rejection of negative self talk will help Black women come full circle.

Benefits: Qhemet Biologics was the first natural haircare line to feature MSM, which is essential for hair growth and health. QB is also shea butter-free, vegetarian,cruelty-free, eco-friendly, and formulated specifically to address the needs of those struggling with dry, tangle-prone hair. The products also conform to the stricter EU and Japanese cosmetic saftey standards, which means they do not contain mineral oil, silicones, sls, phthalates, parabens, dmdh hydantoin, triclosan, sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, diazolidinyl urea, or imidazolidinyl urea.

Best Sellers: The hands-down best seller is the Amla & Olive Heavy Cream ($17), a favorite among those who find it difficult to retain moisture in hair. Along with the Heavy Cream, I found a new home in the Aethiopika Hydrate & Twist Butter ($14) and the Burdock Root Buttercream ($16). Qhemet Biologics definitely delivers on the promise of moisture with each product. I didn't need to refresh, re-apply, or anything between washes. And a little bit most certainly goes a long way. What I found to be incredible was that even though my natural hair was THOROUGHLY moisturized, it didn't weigh down my heat damage and make it look like wet noodles. In fact, I got a pretty amazing twist-out when I wasn't even planning to (sometimes the best hair days happen that way). Products that are able to cater to multiple textures are definitely a winner in my book. By the way, Aethiopika Hydrate & Twist Butter is a miracle end sealer, and slicks edges!

Where to Buy: Qhemet Biologics is available online at www.qhemetbiologics.com, and in a number of stores across more than 20 states. There is some international availability as well! Click here to see if there is one near you.

Soultanicals
Backstory: Inspired by her love of cultures, traditions, and the natural richness of African design, Ayo Ogun-McCants created Soultanicals afro-vegan hair and body products. The Soultanicals line features products with botanical ingredients, bright designs and fun names, inspired by Ayo's own earthy, fun, and afro-original nature. Soultanicals products are made for naturals of all textures and lengths who want to experience high-quality handmade natural products, while promoting self-love and wellness.

Benefits: Soultanicals' products are handmade fresh with 100% botanical (vegan) ingredients. They do not include phthalates, parabens, sulfates, petroleum, mineral oil, glycols, or other controversial ingredients. The products are all 100% toxin-free, cruelty-free, vegan, and do not contain artificial preservatives, fragrances, or dyes.

Best Sellers: Soultanicals hallmark products include the Knot Sauce Coil Detangler ($13), Marula-Muru Moisture Guru ($14), Hair Sorrell Knappylicious Kink Drink ($12), and Fluffalicious Curl Nutricious ($14). Before I get in to which products I adore, I just wanted to stop and recognize that EVERYTHING in this line smells AMAZING. There is a light, sweet aroma that makes you feel good about using it. Positive vibes do come in a jar. The Knot Sauce detangles like a dream, while still managing to be lightweight and moisturizing (a top pick for my pre-poo/detangle time). The Fluffalicious Curl Nutricious defies logic, proving to be incredibly moisturizing but feeling super lightweight. It wasn't mentioned by I absolutely ADORE the Curl Blaze Hair Glaze ($13)  - it makes for an amazing wash n' go. I have so much more to say about the Soultanicals line...stay tuned for an in-depth review.

Where to Buy: I really wish Soultanicals was available in my local Sprouts or Whole Foods, because I'd be there right now to pick up some more Curl Blaze Hair Glaze. Until that day comes (please, Jesus), you can I can stock up on Soultanicals goodies online at www.soultanicals.com


All Things O' Natural
Backstory: In March of 2011, Dominique Harris and her husband launched All Things O'Natural with the vision and intent to support the healing of mind, body, and spirit from a holistic perspective. The Harris' believe that total wellness and balance are of incredible importance, and the All Things O'Natural line of hair and body products focuses on rejecting the synthetic and non-natural, while embracing the natural goodness of the Creator. For them, natural is a lifestyle -- and hair is just a part of it.

Benefits: All Things O'Natural products are all handmade, vegan, gluten-free, cruelty-free, and do not contain silicones, mineral oil, petroleum, synthetic fragrances, artificial colors, phthalates, PABA, or parabens. They also measure and indicate the pH of all products on their labeling (which I find to be really cool). All products are also available in a fragrance-free option.

Best Sellers: Simplicity is key to the All Things O'Natural brand, therefore they only produce 5 products and all of them sell amazingly well. The pH balanced products work well on multiple textures, as proven by their natural, relaxed, transitioning, and ethnically diverse customer base. My absolute favorites are the Natty Moist ($17) and Natty Cupuacu & Rhassoul Deep Conditioner ($20). The Natty Moist is an amazingly versatile product that can be used for pre-poo and detangling (the slip is off the chain!), as a leave-in, or daily moisturizer. It can even be used as a skin lotion! Above all else, the Natty Cupuacu & Rhassoul Deep Conditioner has stolen my heart. Not only does it smell like a tootsie roll, it is incredibly moisturizing, and surprisingly curl defining. Dominique shared the wash n' go secret with me on Instagram, and I haven't looked back since.

Where to Buy: All Things O'Natural is available at a select few retail locations, but all of their offerings are available online at www.nattynatural.com. To see if there is a store near you, click here!

Hydratherma Naturals
Backstory: Throughout the 90's, Saleemah Cartwright worked as a licensed cosmetologist and noticed an alarming trend of breakage and damage with many of her new clients. She discovered that her clients were unaware of the necessity for a protein-moisture balance within the hair, or how to maintain it. After trying a number of products on the market on both her and her clients' hair, Saleemah found that most products were either too moisture heavy, or too protein-heavy -- both leading to breakage. As a solution, she began making a moisturizer for her clients in her basement, experimenting and incorporating some of her favorite natural ingredients, aimed at helping their hair flourish. This product, the Daily Moisturizing Growth Lotion gained popularity among her clients, friends, and family. From that one product, the Hydratherma Naturals line was born.

Benefits: The entire Hydratherma Naturals line is focused on creating the perfect protein-moisture balance in all types of hair textures. All products are pH balanced, paraben, mineral oil, and petroleum free. All Hydratherma Naturals also contain Emu Oil, which assists in the stimulation of hair growth by increasing circulation and moisture in the scalp. It has anti-inflammatory and anti- aging properties, soothes the scalp, contains omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids.

Best Sellers: The flagship Daily Moisturizing Growth Lotion ($14) is the #1 seller, and the Protein Balance Leave-In Conditioner ($16), as well as the Hair Growth Oil ($14) are also at the top of the list. The Daily Moisturizing Growth Lotion is amazing at providing moisture to the hair without weighing it down. I am also a fan of the Hair Growth Oil for light sealing and super stimulating scalp massages. Personally, the real star of the line for me is the Amino Plus Protein Deep Conditioner ($17).  I won't get too much into why, because you can read my full review here. But please understand. The love my hair has gotten from the deep conditioner is REAL.

Ynobe Shop
Backstory: Ynobe Shop founder Ebony Johnson has always made her own products for her hair. Once she began spreading the love to her friends and family, a growing number of inquires came about. She was frequently asked if her products were for sale, and would always reply no. That would generally be followed by prompts and encouragement to start doing so. Eventually, she embraced the entrepreneurial call, and decided to research, brainstorm, and plan. Shortly thereafter, Ynobe Shop products were sold on Etsy. After gaining more popularity, Ebony branched out to her own website and online shop.

Benefits: All of Ynobe Shop's products are handmade to order, and even include a date stamp on the label letting you know exactly how fresh your goodies are. In addition to being handmade, Ynobe Shop products are also free of silicones, mineral oil, petroleum, synthetic fragrances, artificial colors, phthalates, and parabens. Ynobe Shop also offers an eco-friendly container reuse program. When you ship back your empty product containers, they are sterilized for reuse and refilled with your products of choice -- and you receive free shipping and a 10% discount. For the ingredient sensitive, there are also glycerin and protein-free options for products that contain those ingredients.

Best Sellers: The Amla & Nettle Moisturizing Deep Conditioner ($14) and Lemongrass & Avocado Flaxseed Smoothie ($9) are Ynobe's best sellers. I must say that I absolutely ADORE both products. The Amla & Nettle Moisturizing Deep Conditioner was the perfect consistency (thick and creamy without being stiff), went on like a dream, had great slip, and left my hair soft and shiny as all get out. The Lemongrass & Avocado Flaxseed Smoothie gave me a great change of pace from my traditional super-defined wash n' go curls. The smoothie gives me soft, ultra moisturized curls (without weighing my hair down or giving me the greasies), with tons of body and volume -- and no buildup. Plus, I didn't need to refresh my hair the following days.

Where to Buy: Ynobe Shop products are available exclusively online at www.ynobeshop.com.

Sweet Nature By Eddie
Backstory: When Eddie was in her twenties, she suffered severe hair loss and damage due to an allergic reaction to bonding glue; her hair went bald in the crown and thinned severely throughout. After purchasing every product that claimed it would grow her hair back, going through steroid injections in her scalp, and undergoing infrared light therapy, without much success, she decided to wage war against her hair loss. Eddie tirelessly researched ways to grow her hair back longer stronger and healthier. During her journey, she discovered priceless information about ingredients that stunt and promote hair growth, how to detect follicle disorders, and illness that impede hair growth. In 2007, she compiled all of her research and authored a guide to empower women in transitioning from chemicals and growing healthy hair, Relaxed or Natural, You Can Have Beautiful, Healthy Black Hair. That same year, Eddie began mixing ingredients to make products for herself to promote growth, thickness, and strength. Once everyone around her began to see the results of her product, the demand was created and Sweet Nature By Eddie came to life.

Benefits: All of the products in the Sweet Nature By Eddie line are infused with MSM, which is proven to support the growth of hair. Additionally, Sweet Nature By Eddie products are all free of silicones, mineral oil, petroleum, synthetic fragrances, artificial colors, phthalates, and parabens.

Best Sellers: For the Sweet Nature By Eddie line, the best sellers are the Inspiration Shampoo ($15), Love Deep Conditioner ($10), and Dream Cream Moisturizer ($15). I personally enjoyed the Dream Cream Moisturizer as a mid-week refresher, because of its consistency. I found it to be a thorough moisturizer that didn't weigh my hair down. For me, the star of the show was the Wisdom Moisturizer ($15). It is a butter, but not incredibly heavy. It was an awesome moisturizer for my flat ironed hair (see, I told you it wasn't heavy!), and also worked great at providing a light hold on my edges. Unlike typical butters, it didn't lock moisture out of my hair, but rather felt more like a moisturizer and sealer all in one!

Where to Buy: Sweet Nature By Eddie products are available online at www.sweetnaturebyeddie.info.


Kurlee Belle
Backstory: Kurlee Belle founder Terrinique Pennerman has always had a love for beautiful hair. Growing up on a small island in The Bahamas, she spent countless hours on Saturdays in the local beauty salon with her mom. As she sat in the salon, she would witness dozens of women getting their hair chemically and heat straightened in the name of beauty. What she, nor anyone else understood at the time was the amount of damage these processes cause. When Terrinique finally decided to embrace her natural hair, she discovered that there were no products on the market that were made from natural ingredients, or that even worked. She began seeking out natural ingredients that were familiar to her on the island in early childhood - like honey, aloe, avocado, and eggs. Her primary focus was making deep conditioning treatments and moisturizing creams to keep hair nourished. When Terrinique launched Kurlee Belle in 2009, she did so with research, recipes, and products inspired by The Bahamas.

Benefits: The Kurlee Belle product line is driven by high quality ingredients and integrity. They do not include parabens, sulfates, paraffin, phthalates, mineral oil, PABA, DEA, synthetic color, propylene glycol, or petroleum. Kurlee Belle products are also vegan and gluten-free.

Best Sellers: The Thirsty Kurls Leave-In Conditioner ($14) is the #1 Kurlee Belle seller. Many naturals and popular bloggers call it their holy grail leave-in, and one of the best products of 2013. I totally cosign on the leave-in. It is absolutely divine in terms of providing moisture and softness to the hair. But for me, the holy grail must have of the Kurlee Belle line is the Banana Nut & Avocado Deep Treatment ($16). To date, it is the best pre-poo product I have ever used. It has amazing slip, leaves hair soft, shiny, and makes detangling a breeze. It was so amazing, I almost didn't want to rinse it out of my hair. And I definitely almost shed a tear when I used the last of the jar.

Where to Buy: Kurlee Belle products are available exclusively online at www.kurleebelle.com.


Camille Rose Naturals
Backstory: The Camille Rose Naturals line of hair and body products was inspired by two major driving forces -  her grandmother, Camille and alarming stories from her husband. Her grandmother was the original 'Mixtress' of the family, creating natural, home-made treatments to care for and improve the health of loved ones. Janell's husband, an oncologist would come home with stories about different cancers - which led her to believe there must be a correlation between what we put in/on our bodies and how we feel. Inspired by the natural hair revolution and the extreme humidity in Louisiana, Janell  founded Camille Rose Naturals in 2010 with the aim of developing handmade hair and body products for modern natural hair sophisticates who care about their total health, beauty, and wellness.

Benefits: All Camille Rose Naturals products are handmade, which is pretty amazing considered the widespread availability (you'll know what I'm talking about soon). All Camille Rose Products are free of parabens, sulfates, mineral oil, propylene glycol, petroleum, and other synthetic ingredients. Because Janell herself is a dedicated vegan, her products are vegan as well.

Best Sellers: Popular Camille Rose Naturals products include The Algae Renew Deep Conditioner ($20), Curl Maker ($22), Fresh Curl ($14) and Almond Jai Twisting Butter ($17). Admittedly, I am a total fan of the Algae Renew Deep Conditioner and Fresh Curl. The Algae Rnew makes an amazing pre-poo or deep conditioning treatment. It left my hair super soft, and my curls were springy and defined. It also made my hair feel like it was infused with moisture that was built to last for a few days. Paired with the Fresh Curl, my hair was in moisture heaven. Although the consistency of Fresh Curl seems light and unassuming, it packs a moisturizing punch making it a great leave-in or moisturizer. It's actually in my hair right now and I can't stop touching it! It also has pretty good slip, and can be used for mid-week detangling sessions.

Where to Buy: Camille Rose Naturals is probably one of the more accessible small business brands. You can purchase online at www.camillerosenaturals.com or in select Target and Whole Foods stores. Click here to see if the line is available in a major retailer near you!


My Honey Child
Backstory: The My Honey Child line was founded by salon owner with a brave streak, Krika Bradsher. Krika herself has always been natural, but had regularly styled relaxed clients. Over time, she grew fed up with clients who would come in suffering from relaxer abuse - meaning they frequently cut corners by using store bought relaxers, and ended up overprocessing their hair and expected Krika to save their tresses. Increasingly, she found there were heads of hair she could not "save", and would tell the clients to transition to natural styling. Naturally, some agreed and some walked away upset. Eventually, Krika transitioned her Sophia Sunflower Salon to an exclusive natural hair salon. This was 16 years ago, and she hasn't looked back since. Her displeasure with the market of available "Black" hair products led her to create the My Honey Child line.

Benefits: The My Honey Child line has the benefit of being developed by a long-time hair stylist and salon owner. Extensive research and experience drives the creation of all products in the line. My Honey Child products are free of silicones, mineral oil, petroleum, synthetic fragrances, artificial colors, phthalates, and parabens. The My Honey Child line is great for all textures of hair, especially those craving moisture. It is especially great for transitioners - many of the products are designed with successfully growing out relaxers and damaged hair in mind.

Best Sellers: The best My Honey Child sellers are the Type 4 Hair Crème, Olive You Deep Conditioner, and Coconut Hair Milk. I am an absolute nut for deep conditioners, so my personal favorites are the Molasses Hydrating Deep Conditioner ($18) and Coconut Papaya Hair Paste ($15). As a transitioner, products that cater to my new and damaged hair are automatically high up on my list. I love the moisture, shine, softness, and just everything about both deep conditioners. Stay tuned for in-depth reviews on both!

Where to Buy: In addition to www.myhoneychild.com, the My Honey Child line of products is available at the flagship store of the same name in Raleigh, North Carolina. There are also a number of brick and mortar and online stores carrying the My Honey Child products in several states and internationally. Check to see if there is a store near you here!


All in all, I'm having a blast discovering and showcasing these amazing small business brands. Is one of your favorites not featured? Shoot me an e-mail at info@maneobjective.com or let me know on Instagram @maneobjective. I'm really serious about this mission to promote supporting Black owned natural hair businesses, with products that keep our hair and health at the center. Sure, the products may cost a little more, but I can without a doubt say that every penny is worth it. My hair has never performed better, shed so much less, been stronger, and retained moisture so well - all of which are major feats for transitioners and naturals. The icing on the cake is truly the ingredient integrity of these brands. None of the brands featured cut corners for the sake of a profit. What more could you ask for?

Before I get any further in this piece, let me make one thing abundantly clear:

If your hair is heat damaged, nothing, I repeat, nothing, I mention after this sentence is going to help restore your curl pattern. Damage is damage is damage. Trust me. I know from experience.

Moving right along...

If you follow me on Instagram (why do I feel like 87% of my posts start that way now? But I digress...), then you know I spent the better part of a week with straight-esque hair. I flat ironed my hair after a 4 month hiatus from heat, and I was semi pleased with the results. On the plus side, my hair was thick as all get-out. On the down side, I experimented with a Redken product at the recommendation of someone from Ulta and I HATED it. Like, nothing redeeming about the product. Somewhere in the middle of the road, I'm toying with the notion that I'll likely never see that super sleek and straight hair again...unless I find a hairdresser that can flat iron the crap out of my hair without damaging it.

All that aside, I am always happy to report successfully straightening my hair and being able to bounce back without a curl out of whack. Of course, I still have the same heat damage I've always had, but nothing new. How? Well, there are two steps:

Step 1: Prevent it in the first place. Click here to read about how I prevent heat damage when flat ironing.

Step 2: Rehabilitate those curls and coils.

We're here to talk about step 2. Luckily, step 2 only consists of 4 really easy parts, which you  probably do in some form or fashion already. But to rehab the hair, kick each one up a notch.

Ready? Let's explore.

Part I: Water-Based Pre-poo.
There are a million reasons why the pre-poo is important  to natural and transitioning hair. But in the process of reversion, it is an integral step. When hair is straightened, we tend to avoid water or water-based anything to prevent hair from reverting to its natural state. That's all well and good, until we start talking moisture. There's only so much serums (many of which are silicone-based anyway), oils, and butter whips can do. Our hair needs and craves true moisture from water. So to stave off breakage and prepare the hair to return to normal, a water-based pre-poo is in order. It doesn't have to be anything fancy or complicated, your favorite conditioner will do just fine. Right now, my personal pre-poo preferences are Kurlee Belle Banana Nut & Avocado Deep Treatment and Soultanicals Knot Sauce. Both are super duper slippy, and contain amazing ingredients. Don't worry, an in-depth review is coming soon. Whatever product you choose, make sure it is water (or aloe vera juice) based. As an added bonus, if you're able to steam the hair then do so. Pack in as much moisture as you can! I personally whip out the Q-Redew for pre-pooing, but you can find a list of alternative ways to get your steam on here.

Part II: Really Clean Your Hair
Post straightening stint is really not the time for a cowash. Let's face it: you've got buildup. If you're anything like me, you probably used 2-3 products to protect and straighten, added oils and serums throughout the week to maintain softness, and sweated to high heaven at the gym. With all that going on, a cowash is not going to cut it. At the very least, you need a diluted shampoo or shampoo bar. Something that will produce some sort of lather, and lift up everything you've put down. For this step, I personally enjoyed using Obia Natural Hair Care's Coconut Shea Shampoo Bar or Soultanicals Honey I Shrunk the Frizz Strand Poo Bar. Gentle, effective cleansing without drying the hair. Of course, Soultanicals review coming soon!


Part III: Deeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep Condition
Of all the steps, I think this one is the most important. After enduring processes that have zapped the moisture out of your hair, deep conditioning is a must-do. Preferably, a deep conditioner known to moisturize, penetrate, and nourish the hair and scalp. On top of that, the longer you can let it sit on the better. Yes, most deep conditioners are going to do their repairative work within 30 minutes. But I personally believe that the longer your hair can sit in a wet/dampened environment slathered in conditioner after a straightening binge, the better off it will be. This particular time around, I have been boo-lovin' on All Things O' Natural Natty Cupuacu & Rhassoul Deep Conditioner (review coming soon...I promise). I sat with that tootsie-roll smelling, slip-havin', moisturizing, deep conditioner in my hair for 2 hours. Then, I rinsed it out, turned around and slapped some more into my hair as a leave-in base for my wash n' go. Which takes me to my next point...

Part IV: Give Your Hair A Chance to CHILL

After you've done all these steps and gotten your curls to bounce back with a vengeance, you might be tempted to go straight into another style, or even stretch them out a little. Don't. You just spent so much time pouring back into your hair what it has missed out on. Give it some time to absorb the goodness of being back to normal. If you can, try and stick with a one-and-done style like a wash n' go. Or a bun. Something that requires minimal effort and manipulation. My style of choice is a wash n' go, featuring the aforementioned DC and Soultanicals Curl Blaze Hair Glaze (my new MUST HAVE). Sidebar: can you tell that EVERYTHING Soultanicals makes is amazing? Yeah.

See! Not that bad. What are some of your favorite ways to rehab your hair after a straightened or stretched stint?

Me and my transitioning hair, circa 2013...lol (stretched wash n' go)

I haven't done a great job of showing it lately, but I get a lot of reader e-mails with questions about transitioning to natural hair. Some ask for product recommendations, others want to know how to get their curl back, so forth, etc. I love being able to offer advice and suggestions tailored to individual heads of hair, but there are some truths that hold universal. If you're transitioning or considering a transition to natural hair, check out this compilation of 5 myths about transitioning (inspired by said e-mails), and the truth about each one:

Myth #1: You can only transition from a relaxer.
Totally and completely untrue. The whole idea behind transitioning is a move from unhealthy and damaged hair to vibrant, natural hair. Of course, many women transition from relaxers. I hadn't had a relaxer in my hair since my first (and last) kiddie perm around 6 years old. So what am I transitioning from, then? Heat damage. There's plenty of scientific and anecdotal evidence supporting the fact that repetitive exposure to heat (and it doesn't even have to be super duper high) causes heat damage; which loosens or completely straightens natural hair to the point where it looks relaxed. Permanent color can alter texture as well, or your hair could just be suffering from mechanical (high manipulation) damage. Any way you have it, there's something to transition from and transition to.

Myth #2: You will get your curl "back".
I can't stress this enough. A continuing theme in a lot of the e-mails I receive is an expressed desire for a curl or texture to return. Unfortunately, if your hair is damaged, that is not the case. There is no treatment you can do, no product you can buy that will make your curl return to you. Damage is damage is damage. Now, there is a caveat to this. Let's say all along your hair has been healthy and textured, and you decide to flat iron it one time on a temperature that's a wee bit too high. As a result, your coils don't spring back to normal; they're a little drab and stretched-looking. To help rehab your hair, you can pick up a product like ApHogee 2-Step Protein Treatment, or Aubrey Organics Glycogen Protein Balancing Conditioner. Even with these protein and moisture restoring products, there is no guarantee that your hair will be as it was before. But if you're a chronic straightener (like I was), or had a relaxer, neither of these treatments will do anything for you. Instead of wasting time and money on products that won't do anything but disappoint you, focus on what is working well for the new curls coming in that are replacing the long gone ones.

Myth #3: You don't have to comb your hair.
Any transitioner or natural will tell you that this is an outright lie. Sure, there are many who transition using low-manipulation or protective styles that don't have to be touched for days or weeks at a time, but that doesn't mean we don't comb our hair. It has to eventually be detangled, to release shed hairs that get caught up in the mix. I personally detangle my hair once or twice a week. Most mornings I pull my hair into a bun or some sort of updo, but I don't need to rake a comb through it every day. Truth is, most transitioners don't comb their hair every day. The only exception to this was within the first 2 - 3 months of transitioning, where my hair was mostly heat damaged and combing/twisting/braiding every day and night didn't cause many problems. But the further I got into my transition, the less I tried to manipulate my hair during the week because that line of demarcation is a doozy. But that doesn't mean I don't comb my hair at all. Perhaps the way to make this myth into a transitioning truth is to state that "I comb my hair less".

Myth #4: "Curl enhancing" products are for you.
 As tempting as it sounds, put that jar/bottle/tube down. I know you hear bloggers and vloggers (myself included) raving about xyz products making their curls pop, have super definition, and everything else. But dial it back to point #2 for a second. These products will only work on hair that already has a curl/kink/coil pattern. It won't re-activate a curl that's gone, or put one back where once once was. Let's take my hair for example. I recently cozied up to Miss Jessie's Super Sweetback Treatment (because it was on sale for $14.99 at a local Beauty Supply Store), and tried it as a leave-in for a wash n' go. It worked quite well (photo on Instagram, review coming soon); defining my curls to the max. But it didn't do diddly squat for my heat damaged ends. They remained straight. Same story for every curl enhancing, curl defining, curl sculpting, and curl making product out there. No matter what the ingredients are, their properties will only bring textured hair to life. Not relaxed or heat damaged ends. So instead of focusing on curl definition during the early part (first 6 - 9 months) of a transition, become more acquainted with retaining moisture and hair strength.

Myth #5: It's all about length retention.
A while back, I wrote a piece debating whether transitioners should be concerned with length retention. In that article, I concluded that the answer was both yes and no. Yes, because length is an indicator of health (not saying short hair is unhealthy, or long hair always is). No, because the very nature of the transition is to gradually cut off damaged ends over time. For almost the first year of my transition, I was much more concerned with length retention because my goal was to hold on to the long hair I was accustomed to. I would trim minimally, protectively style diligently, and put extra emphasis on my scalp and ends.  As I approach almost 1.5 years (the official mark is September), I realize that for me, now growth is far more important than length retention. Not to say that I ignore my ends and don't protectively style, but I acknowledge that much more of my energy and attention should be devoted to the natural texture I am growing out; making sure it is healthy, strong, moisturized, and in tip-top shape. I even find myself trimming off some ends about every few weeks. Once I fully transition, this paradigm will shift again and I will likely become obsessed with length retention, because I will not have a reason to trim so often. So in conclusion, there is nothing wrong with a concern for length retention. But that isn't ALL she wrote.

What are some of the other myths surrounding transitioning hair that you've shattered, or learned otherwise?

I've been transitioning for 16 months, and my transition has been a very public one. Amid all the support and encouragement, there is another element that arises: pressure to chop.

"Girl your hair is gorgeous! Just cut those ends off!"
"Are you chopping soon?"
"You should chop your hair, I did and I love it!"

While I do realize the consequences of a public transition, I still maintain that this is my head of hair, and nobody has to wear it but me. When confronted with this commentary, I politely inform that I am not ready to cut my hair (often citing my being accustomed to having longer hair, or that my head is too big for short hair), and that when I'm ready to chop it will be just as public as my transition. Don't get me wrong -- there are some fierce looking TWA's, neck, and shoulder length natural hair icons out there. Their courage to forge ahead and chop away something perceived as so aesthetically vital is to be applauded. By no means is this writing intended to diminish those that choose to chop their hair and start over. I am simply utilizing my own experience in transitioning to support and encourage those ladies who may be battling the same pressure - externally and internally.

Here are a few tips for navigating those choppy waters:


Don't let someone else's agenda dictate what YOU do with YOUR hair.
NOTHING rubs me the wrong way as much as someone trying to get you to do something as a part of their agenda. Not just when it comes to my hair, but in everyday life. If I'm busy pushing your agenda, who's moving mine forward? But I digress. Whenever you come upon someone more eager for you to chop your hair than you are, kindly tell them to dial it back and have a few seats. Don't get into debates and arguments with folks about what you should do with your hair...because it's YOUR hair. You have to wear it, care for it, style it, and everything in between; so why would you let them pressure you into doing something they won't be responsible for maintaining? They'll tell you that you will feel so free when you cut it, or that those scraggly ends are holding you back from reaching your full potential. Thank them for their opinions, and keep it moving.

Skip the Big Chop vs Transition Drama
In the natural hair community, there are several areas of contention: from hair typing, to if x, y, z manipulated hair is still considered natural, and of course big choppers versus transitioners. Do not by any means become consumed with this drama...or any natural hair drama, for that matter. As each side makes their case for and against, all you will do is become more uncertain, unsure, and uncomfortable. Transitioning is already hard enough. Don't make it more difficult on yourself by allowing other's opinions to dictate how you feel about your decisions... and your hair.

Stop Internalizing
Following the myriad of natural hair products and accounts on Instagram and Pinterest is a double-edged sword. On one hand, it's beautiful to see women of color affirming themselves, embracing their hair, and just generally rocking some kick-ass styles. On the other hand, it can be hard to constantly digest those pictures when your hair isn't quite on that page. I've had to catch myself several times from saying "Gosh I wish my hair looked like..."Yes, their hair is beautiful -- those kinks, coils, and curls are envied by everyone. But I had to stop gushing over their tresses while simultaneously hating mine. In due time, your hair will look like everyone else's; full, fro-licious, and kinky/curly to the max. But in the meantime, we will have to patiently wait and love every part of this process and what it is teaching us.

Understand Your Options
Just because you've decided to transition doesn't mean you have to hide your hair in weaves, wigs, braids, and buns. There are plenty of styles out there that are perfect for blending transitioning textures, and providing definition and curl as gorgeous as some of the 100% naturalistas out there. Twist and curls, satin strip braidouts, curlformers, flexi-rod sets, straw sets, bantu knot-outs, and more are great ways to build transitioning hair confidence. Spend some time perfecting a few styles that can be your go-to, and look great no matter what. The better you get at styling, the more confidence you will have in your hair, and your ability to stick this whole transition thing out.


Do you feel pressured to chop your hair? How do you handle it? Let's get some more tips going!

Article also featured on Black Girl with Long Hair.

Lately, I've been getting a lot of e-mails and questions about tips, advice, product recommendations, and secrets for successfully transitioning to natural hair. Once you've made up your mind to go natural, it's pretty easy to become obsessed. And with a plethora of blogs, websites, YouTube videos, Instagrams, Pintrests, Facebook pages and Google Plusses, the world of natural hair is never more than a few clicks away. Before your eyes glaze over, or you find yourself caught in the whirlwind frenzy of products. pH balancing, porosity, and parabens, take a second and breathe. Transitioning may be difficult, but it doesn't have to be complicated.

FYI: I'm not there yet! June marks 16 months in the struggle (lol) for me....and I've got at least 3 more to go before I'm done. While I haven't reached the promised land yet, I have definitely had my share of stumbles and successes. Keep reading  to get a general idea of what I went through my first year of transitioning, as well as some do's and don'ts to help encourage and keep you on track. Every transition isn't the same, but hopefully there are some tidibits in here to help you along the way!

1 - 3 Months: Excited and Gullible
The first three months of my transition, I was doe-eyed...to say the least. I spent a LOT of time oogling over the likes of Hey Fran Hey, Naptural85, and Mahogany Curls -- longing for the day my tresses would hover in their territory. I also found myself obsessed with what I later found to be the biggest waste of money for a transitioner -- styling products. Even though I knew and accepted that my hair was heat damaged, I held out hope that some miracle potion would deliver rejuvenated curls as promised on the label. Needless to say, that didn't happen.

DO: If you're just beginning your transition, commit the first three months to developing good haircare habits -- they'll carry you further in the long run. If you don't already, sleep with a satin (or silk, if you're fancy!) scarf, bonnet, or pillowcase. Learn how to properly moisturize and seal hair. In the first three months, practices like finger detangling aren't vital, because most of your hair will still be straight (whether heat damaged or relaxed), and fairly easy to comb through. Months 1 - 3 is also a perfect time to clean house in terms of products. If you're transitioning from a relaxer and you still have some creamy crack stashed somewhere, throw it out or give it away. Or, if you just so happen to have the receipt, return it. For those transitioning from heat damage, store the irons out of sight, or put them in someone else's care. If you're giving up sulfates, silicones, mineral oil, petrolatum, parabens, etc., chuck those products as well.

DON'T: Waste money or time trying to "get your curl back". It's not coming back. More than likely, it left the building a LONG time ago and you were too busy flat ironing or relaxing to notice. The first three months is also not the time to buy into hair typing (if ever at all). It's much too early in the game to decipher how your natural hair will behave, and hopping on the typing bandwagon (among others) will serve you absolutely no purpose. Also, avoid immediately slapping your hair into box braids or Havana twists. With only a small amount of new growth, your hair is highly susceptible to breakage from the stress and weight of added hair at this point. Save those styles for later on down the line.

4 - 6 Months: Why Did I Do This, Again?
After the first leg of my transition was down, I found myself excited when I straightened my hair for the first time. It was longer, stronger, and thicker than what I started with. That alone kept me encouraged through month 4, and into 5. Then I hit a wall. My go-to styles were no longer working. My banana clips (God, I loved me some banana clips) wouldn't stay closed to save my life, and I couldn't fake the funk with my pseudo wash n' go anymore. I was frustrated. I had doubts. Everything I was learning seemed for naught. My hair was driving me crazy.

DO: When you hit a wall in your transition, change something up. This is the perfect time to start experimenting with transitioner styles that blend textures, finger detangling, protective styling, and maybe even a new product or two. This is also the right time to start paying extra attention to the line of demarcation between your new and old hair. Gentle handling, regular deep conditioning, and protective styling combined with those moisturizing and sealing techniques you learned early on will help minimize breakage. Lastly, find the best detangling products and method for you. Get a handle on it now, because as any naturalista would tell you, you're gonna need it in the future. Like next week.

DON'T: Give up and go back to what you were doing out of frustration. It's ok to use heat seldomly (once every 3 months or so), but don't start flat ironing on a weekly basis because you hate the way your hair looks right now. It will only lead to more damage.

7 - 9 Months: That Awkward Moment...
For me, months 7, 8, and 9 were just plain awkward. Although I was loving my hair and digging my new growth, I found myself in an unflattering in-between stage, reminiscent of wearing a training bra. Too much to not need anything, not enough for the real deal. I found myself wanting out of this stage ASAP. I buckled down on my vitamins, scalp massages, and even subjected myself to some totally unflattering hairstyles in the name of growth progress.

DO: This is the perfect time to adopt washing your hair in sections, to prevent re-tangling during the cleansing process. Continue to be diligent. Your hard work is going to pay off. Keep detangling gently, cleansing regularly, deep conditioning, moisturizing and sealing. If you're into building a regimen, then create one at this point that works for you. If not, you can always go ahead and with listening to your hair and acting accordingly.To help keep your mind off of the starkly different textures, find a few staple styles that are great for blending -- like satin strip braidouts, straw sets, twist and curls, flexi rods, bantu knot-outs, or Curlformer sets. Master these staple styles, and make them your go-to when you get tired of buns, updos, or just looking at partially textured, partially straight hair.

DON'T: Start curl coveting, or beating yourself up over growth progress. Yes, Mahogany Curls, Naptural85, Hey Fran Hey, and Chime Edwards all have GORGEOUS hair. And if you follow many of their journeys (especially Mahogany Curls and Naptural85), you'll see that they didn't get those amazing manes overnight. Everyone's hair grows at a different rate, so don't get all up in arms if you only get 1/4 inch of growth per month, instead of 1/2 or 1 inch. Besides, your hair might be growing faster than you know -- but you just can't see it because its all curled and coiled up.

10 - 12 Months: Closer to My Dreams...
Once I got closer to the year mark, I really hit my stride. I had a firm grasp on what worked for my hair, and what didn't. I could do my favorite styles in my sleep. At this point, I could really see my texture coming through, and I was more committed than ever to seeing this thing to the end.

DO: Get ingredient savvy. Sure, over the past year you've learned all about silicones, sulfates, parabens, mineral oils, petrolatum, and other generally "red flag" ingredients. But have you educated yourself on fatty alcohols, humectants, ingredients that penetrate, and those that repair? Now is a great time to get beyond surface level and really understand the products you're using, or interested in using. Jc of The Natural Haven, The Beauty Brains, and the EWG Skin Deep Cosmetic Database are great resources. You can also get into the DYI trend, if that tickles your fancy. Making your own flaxseed gel, whipped shea butter, oil blends, and more is a great way to save money and use quality ingredients.

DON'T: As you approach or hit the one year mark, try not to fall prey to product junkie-ism. Because you see your hair texture more, you might be more prone to scooping up everything that says curl defining on the bottle -- but don't. Experimenting with a product or two is always fine, but don't go burning through a wad of cash at this point...or ever.

1 Year + : It's All Up to You
After you hit the year mark, it's really whatever you want from your hair. If you're ready to cut, cut. If you want to keep going, keep going. I've personally been transitioning for 16 months, with at least 3 more to go before I consider chopping the rest. Once I got to 15 months, I found myself comfortable rocking wash n' go styles. I still protectively style, but not as diligently (because I love my hair so much, I want to wear it out like all the time). I've become more diligent about the connection between healthy hair and a healthy body. Regular exercise, a cleaner diet, drinking plenty of water, vitamins and supplements are all as important to me as henna treatments, gentle handling, and maintaining moisture. The only major change to my regimen I've made is steaming my hair during detangling, pre-pooing and mid-week for moisture...but that's a story for another time. The bottom line is, after a year all the grueling work is done. Everything pretty much runs like clockwork. Just figure out what you want to do next!

It's important to remember, there is no set timeline on the following things during your transition to natural hair:

• When to trim your hair. Trim your ends as frequently or infrequently as you wish, according to your level of comfort and the health of your hair.
• When to switch up products. Switch as often as you feel so inclined...or stick to your tried and true staples for as long as you wish. If it works, it works. If it doesn't, it doesn't.
• When to do deep treatments. The transitioning process is a great opportunity to learn your hair's needs. If you feel your hair is weak, limp, and lacks strength, do a protein treatment. If it's dry, brittle and lacks elasticity, do a deep moisturizing treatment. There's no timeline on these things. Just take stock of what your hair needs, then do it.
• When to chop. This is perhaps the biggest one. As I become more public with my transitioner progress, I get more and more encouragement and pushes to cut the rest off. With all due respect, when I chop is my decision. The same goes for every other transitioner. Chop when you're ready...and not a moment sooner.

Lastly, here are some things to avoid at every stage of your transition:

• Texturizers/Silkeners. I don't care what you read, or what so-and-so said; a texturizer (silkener) is nothing but a perm that you leave on your hair for a shorter amount of time. If you're looking to truly embrace your natural texture, why fake the funk with a baby perm?
• Too much heat, too often. It has already been shown that heat damage from too high temperatures, too often damage the hair almost as much as a perm. It is perfectly okay to straighten your hair with heat safely on occasion -- but straightening to transition from relaxing is a recipe for danger.
• Neglecting hair in covered styles. Box braids, Havana twists, wigs, and weaves are all great ideas for avoiding high manipulation. But don't forget to actually take care of the hair underneath. It still needs to be detangled, cleansed, and moisturized regularly.
• Ridiculously expensive products. In my humble transitioner opinion, there is no reason to ever spend more than $15 on any given hair product...and that's cutting it close. More often than not, you're paying for a name and fancy packaging. Most conditioners and styling products contain similar ingredients, so don't pay $30 for a 6oz bottle of styling product that you can find a comparable version of elsewhere for $8.
• Negativity. Don't let folks that don't have to wear your hair kill your vibe. You're embracing your natural texture for whatever reasons YOU decided. Not to please anyone else. If anyone (I don't care if it's your mama or your BFF) speaks negatively to you about your transition to natural hair, promptly show them the stadium and let them know they can have several seats.

Above all else, remain patient and enjoy your transition!!!

Featured on Black Girl with Long Hair!

Many naturalistas and transitioners love them some EcoStyler gel. Green top, red top, clear, pink, white...the possibilities are endless. Except for me. Don't get me wrong, EcoStyler is great at what it does. It will hold, slick, and define 'til Jesus comes back. Unfortunately, without the right combination of "softening" products or oils layered in, the gel hardens impossibly. And even with all that work, I still found myself having dry hair. What's a gal to do when you need some hold, or want your edges slicked down for a puff or bun? Check out these 6 alternatives to EcoStyler Gel that wont dry out your hair...or your wallet.

If You're A DIY-er:

DIY Fluffy Styling Cream
When I'm in the mood for whipping out my hand mixer, this is one of the first things I make. I love this cream, which my sister as affectionately dubbed "I Put That on Everything" (because you can, literally, put it on everything), because it provides touchably-soft hold, while infusing your hair with moisturizing and nourishing oils and butters. You can use any variation or combination of shea butter, cocoa butter, coconut oil, sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, glycerin, apricot oil, grapeseed oil....the list goes on. My mixture typically includes a base of shea butter and coconut oil, with jojoba, sweet almond, and vitamin E added in. For more information on whipping up your own fluffy styling cream, click here.


Flaxseed Custard
I know many of you have heard of flaxseed gel, but have you heard of flaxseed custard? I experimentally whipped some up about a month ago when I didn't feel like going out to buy a styling product for my pending twist n' curl. It's a simple recipe really -- a 3 to 1 ratio of flaxseed gel and shea butter. After cooking up a batch of flaxseed gel that's still warm, melt down a few tablespooons of shea butter (feel free to add in your favorite oils -- carrier or essential), and whip them together in a bowl with your hand mixer until a goopy custard forms. This DIY custard is great for moisture, softness, shine, and definition -- and the shea butter kicks it up a notch from the standard flaxseed gel recipe. Unless you're a pro DIYer or hair scientist who happens to have emulsifying agents on deck, I recommend only making enough to use on the day of. Otherwise, it will separate. And look yucky.

If You're A Product Junkie:
Eden BodyWorks Coconut Shea Control Edge Glaze
I've become a huge fan of EBW recently. Eden BodyWorks won me over recently with their Coconut Shea Pudding Soufflé, beating out Camille Rose Naturals Almond Jai Twisting Butter for my favorite moisturizing/styling butter product. But I digress. The Coconut Shea Control Edge Glaze is the answer to my prayers, and everything I wanted Soft n' Free's Nothing But Mold and Hold Wax to be. If you're looking to slick down your edges softly and with tons of sleekness, this product is for you. For wash n' go's, twist-outs, braid-outs, bantu knot-outs and more, this product provides great hold with plenty of shine, softness, and zero drying out. Although it's only a 6oz jar for around $9, a tiny bit of Control Edge Glaze goes a long way. A tiny, tiny bit.


Beautiful Textures Curl Definer Styling Custard
A lot of naturalistas complain about this product. For the life of me, I don't know why. I have nothing but good things to say about this stuff. It's an affordable gel alternative that doesn't dry out the hair, leave flakes, or turn the hair hard when you use it correctly. Based in water and aloe vera extract, and full of goodies like rosemary, vitamin E, coconut oil, shea butter, mango butter, and argan oil, the Beautiful Textures Curl Definer Styling Custard is a great product for reducing frizz, creating definition, and shine. At under $7 for a 15oz jar, this product is a great value for all it does. To prevent the flaking/buildup some naturalistas complain about, make sure to test your product mixes on the back of your hand, and only use a dime-sized amount per small section.

Nubian Heritage Indian Hemp and Tamanu Edge Taming Taffy
I'm cheap. And therefore, I like products that are capable of doing more than one thing -- especially if I'm paying $10 or more. Luckily, I caught this product at CVS during a buy one, get one half-off sale, which was right up my alley (even though buy one, get one free would have been better). I initially purchased the taffy to show my edges some TLC, because I had been bunning a lot. But after playing with the product on a small section of hair, I was determined to use it to set my satin strip braidout one weekend. So I did. And it worked. Because it's based in shea butter, coconut oil and glycerin, it plays well with other products and layers easily. It made my hair soft and super defined -- not to mention the taffy is great for sealing in moisture. Even though it sales for around $12 for a 6oz jar, you'll discover that a little goes a long way -- for your edges and styling. Tip: this product works best on damp/wet hair (that goes for your edges, too).

Shea Moisture Coconut & Hibiscus Curling Soufflé
Move over, Curl Enhancing Smoothie (or at least just fall back for a second)! This sweet, sticky soufflé is a great alternative to your typical gel product. Notice that in my description, I included the word sticky -- because well, it can be incredibly sticky if you go overboard. It's based in agave, sugar cane and glycerin -- all which can lead to sticky city if you're too heavy handed. It has great hold and exceptional shine, and will leave hair touchably soft. For optimal results, use no more than a dime-sized amount on any given section. To balance out the stickiness, this product works best on damp to wet hair. It also mixes well with the Curl Enhancing Smoothie and the Curl and Style Milk from the Coconut & Hibiscus line. For around $11, the 12oz Curling Soufflé jar will last you a mighty long time.

What are some of your favorite alternatives to gel?